Sunday, September 29, 2013

Hanoi Trip Day 2

September was the end of the rainy season of Hanoi and we were reminded of this by the weather on our second day of the trip. The rain had no sign of stopping since the morning and we were trapped under the umbrella for the entire day. 
After breakfast at the hotel, we went for a stroll around the Old Quarter, which gave us a glimpse into the daily activities of the locals. Noodles and porridge were cooked by the street and people were eating on the tiny stools. Women were carrying big bamboo trays, selling raw meat and fresh produce. 

The Dong Xuan Market was the biggest covered market in the city and contained small stalls selling clothes, souvenirs and household goods etc. The wet market was on the other side, selling dried shrimps and dried squids of different sizes. 
One more block towards the east was the Long Bien bridge, which was designed by the same architect as the Eiffel tower. It was once the only way to cross the Red River. We only managed to take a quick snap from a distant because of the rain. 
When we found Bach Ma Temple we were happy to have a shelter from the heavy rain. There are many Chinese temples in the Old Quarter but this one, founded in the 9th century, is is one of the oldest. 
It wouldn't be right not to try the coffee that this country is so famous for so we went to Highland coffee. This particular outlet was right opposite to Hoan Kiem Lake, offering the view of the city centre from the 4th floor.
After the coffee break we headed to several sights around the Hoan Kiem District, including the Den Nogc Son temple and the Huc Bridge. St. Joseph's Cathedral was shut when we walked past so we decided to get some lunch first. 
 Zoka, a small shop selling baguette that was so nice I went there for a total of three times during my stay!
The Little Hanoi served both European and Vietnamese food and we were very impressed by the food and the ambience!
If the rain was not getting heavier Hoa Lo Prison would not probably seem so far. It was first built by the French to house Vietnamese prisoners and later American soldiers during the Vietnam war. The museum now features photos, documents, clothing, torturing devices and equipments, re-telling a piece of painful memory in the Vietnamese history. I was actually too scared to take photographs of the display. The gloomy weather only added to the creepy atmosphere.  
St Joseph's Cathedral was finally opened when we returned so we walked in through its side door. The architecture and the stained glass windows were stunning and it felt very peaceful sitting inside. I was surprised to see such a beautiful church in what I thought to be a Buddhist country. There was no lights or candles inside so it was actually really dark on a day without sunlight.
We found a corner shop selling amazing crème caramel for only 6000 dong each. Of course we returned for more on the day before we left!
The rain refused to give us a break so we headed back to the hotel for a hot shower. 
On the day before we have asked the hotel staff to make reservation for us at Green Tangerine, which was the one restaurant that I really wanted to try after reading the amazing comments on the Internet. Having experienced enough of the wet weather earlier today, we were not in the mood of getting soaked in the rain again. With the help from the hotel staff, we went for a breezy ride on "cyclo" before dinner. We were not allowed to share one so we each got our own personal driver. Sitting on the comfortable cushioned seat and being protected from the rain by plaster cover, we got pushed around the streets of Hanoi by the driver cycling behind us. They took us from the Old Quarter to St Joseph's Cathedral and passed by the Opera House in the French Quarter. While we were promised to a 1-hour journey for VND 10,000, we were dropped off at the restaurant after only 45 minutes. They also requested for extra tips because of the rain. We gave them some extra change to share as tips before quickly vanishing into the restaurant.

Green Tangerine is a restaurant offering French-Vietnamese fusion cuisine with beautiful decorations. We were very impressed by both the service and our dinner. No wonder it is considered one of the best French restaurants in town!

Hanoi Trip Day 1: the town

After a quick freshening up at the hotel, we went out to explore the city on foot. The first thing any tourist in Hanoi need to learn is to cross the road. They drive on the right side of the road and motorists swoop in front and behind any pedestrians in their way. Traffic lights are there to be ignored and traffic seems to come from all directions. Pavements are for parking of motorcycles and street vendors instead of walking so pedestrians are forced to walk on the road instead. After these five days I believe I have mastered the skills of jaywalking.
When we finally reached Hoan Kiem Lake alive, we were rewarded by a pretty sight of the area. The surrounding of the lake, the Den Ngoc Son temple and the Turtoise Tower were lit up during the night and their reflections sparkled on the surface of the water. Both locals and tourists could be seen around the lake enjoying the cool weather in the evening. A couple in traditional Vietnamese costumes were having their wedding photos taken. 


After a stroll around the lake we made our way to Pho 10 as recommended by the hotel staff. We were grateful that the menu was in both Vietnamese and English. I ordered the combination of half done beef slices and flanks and it was as good as we expected, if not better. The beef was thin and tender and the broth was aromatic and sweet from all the spices in it. The lime juice, coriander, spring onion and bean sprouts all contributed to the refreshing and contrasting flavours and texture.
Sitting next to us were a pair of local couple who, with the little English that they could speak, taught us the 'proper' way of eating the noodles by adding the different condiments. The guy even shared with me a piece of deep fried patty, which was a kind of street food I believed made of sweet potato. It was simple gesture like this that made me appreciate the friendly and down-to-earth character of Vietnamese people. 

Hanoi Trip Day 1: Arrival and Charming 2 Hotel

While I enjoy documenting my holidays through writing and photography, as it gives me the opportunity to relive the memory of the journey, I have to admit that blogging is quite time consuming as any blogger can tell you. But since I have already been awake since 4am in this hotel room in Ha Noi, I may as well use the time wisely before I head out for one last breakfast in this amazing city. 

We flew to Hanoi on a Tigerair flight on a September Tuesday afternoon. Having applied for visa on arrival in advance, we proceeded to the counter for visa application with the entry form and waited for our turn for payment. We waited for about 20 minutes before a freshly printed visa was attached to our passports. After another half an hour, we were cleared by the immigration and had our luggage collected.
For the first time in my life I was welcomed at the airport arrival hall by someone holding a cardboard with my name neatly written on it! Transportation from the airport via the private car was free with a minimal booking of 3 nights at the hotel. The impossibly strict speed limit in Hanoi (80kph on highway and 40kph in the town area) meant that the ride to our temporary home in Hanoi took an hour. 
Our hotel Charming 2 Hotel, located at the north-western corner of the Old Quarter, was about 10-15 minutes walk from the town centre. After the exhausting and dehydrating journey from Singapore, the icy welcome drinks and the warm greetings from the hotel staff were most welcomed. In fact the service that we received throughout our stay here was always outstanding. The staff were ready to give us any assistance needed at any time of the day and were never seen without a genuine smile. The rooms were spacious, clean and equipped with a computer with reliable Internet connection which I am using now. Complimentary fruits and bottled water were left in the hotel room every day and I have not missed their daily breakfast even once. Their recommendations on restaurants and itinerary they gave were excellent. To think that I only paid USD$45 for each night, I cannot recommend Charming 2 Hotel more!
 Above is the hotel room which we stayed for the first 2 days.

This is the family room which we got on the last night, with a balcony from which we could watch all the actions in the Old Quarter.